The Green Archive
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2010
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March
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- WiP - Blight Drone Proto-type
- Tutorial - Scale Mail and Fur by Xenite
- Tutorial - How to Greenstuff [basics] by Retributi...
- Tutorial - How To Make a Miniature Cooker
- Conversion Report: Nurgle Lord and Prince by Lazar...
- Conversion Report: Dragon Ogres' by Noeste's
- Review: Miniature Mentors - Sculpting with James V...
- Doktor von Svartmetall's Not Very Nice Nurgle Clin...
- Conversion Report: Corbania Primes' Going Green
- Conversion Report: Thunderwolves
- Tutorial - Nurgling Your Rhino
- How To Use Green Stuff
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March
(12)
Welcome To Green Stuff Sculpting
This blog is being designed to try and gather up as many resources as possible to do with Green Stuff Sculpting and Converting/Modeling.
It is my aim to make this a Hub for all things green, and give the wider community somewhere they can find all of their Green Stuff needs.
It is going to take a while, but with some determination, help from the community and hard work, the goal will be reach.
If anyone is willing to help with this mighty endeavour, please do not hesitate to contact me via e-mail: greenstuffsculpting@googlemail.com
Regards,
-Green Stuff Sculpting
It is my aim to make this a Hub for all things green, and give the wider community somewhere they can find all of their Green Stuff needs.
It is going to take a while, but with some determination, help from the community and hard work, the goal will be reach.
If anyone is willing to help with this mighty endeavour, please do not hesitate to contact me via e-mail: greenstuffsculpting@googlemail.com
Regards,
-Green Stuff Sculpting
Sunday, 21 March 2010
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Green Stuff is made up of two different components, the base which is Yellow and the curing component, which is Blue. If you wish to make a blend that has a longer work time and softer cure, then add more yellow to your mix, if you would like a faster and more hardened cure, add more blue to your mix.
There are also two variations in how Green Stuff is manufactured. The most common form is in the way of strips, which have the two components attached to each other, with a slightly greater proportion of yellow on the ribbon. The other way it is supplied is in two tubes of equal size of each component.
If you’re going to use the ribbon variant for sculpting or converting, you may wish to cut out the middle section of the ribbon that attaches both components. The reason for doing cutting the section out is because where the Blue/Yellow pieces meet the curing process has already taken affect, and if you started to mix your putty in this state you would end up with lump in what should be a smooth mix.
Ribbon Mixing
As stated above, cut away the joining section of the ribbon with a knife (you only need to cut a few millimetre’s either side) so that you take away the cured section, and then cut up the ribbon so have your desired amount of each colour. With damp fingers you will need to knead both parts of the putty together until you have a uniform ‘Green’ coloured mix.

Bar Putty
As the bars are separated from each other there is no need to cut anyway away, and as with the ribbon Green Stuff, you’ll need damp fingers. Take your two bars and cut away the amount of Blue putty you want. If you would like a standard consistency to your putty you will need to cut away a 1.5 ratio of yellow. Basically this means you need 50% more yellow putty to blue putty. Obviously if you need softer or harder putty add more of the particular component required as stated earlier in the article.

Green Stuff has anywhere between a 30 – 60 minute work time depending on consistency, and as a full hardened cure time of between 20 to 24 hours.
It is also advised to use either Vaseline or saliva when working with Green Stuff as it can stick to tools and your skin otherwise as the putty can be quite sticky when mixed.
-Green Stuff Sculpting
Green Stuff is made up of two different components, the base which is Yellow and the curing component, which is Blue. If you wish to make a blend that has a longer work time and softer cure, then add more yellow to your mix, if you would like a faster and more hardened cure, add more blue to your mix.
There are also two variations in how Green Stuff is manufactured. The most common form is in the way of strips, which have the two components attached to each other, with a slightly greater proportion of yellow on the ribbon. The other way it is supplied is in two tubes of equal size of each component.
If you’re going to use the ribbon variant for sculpting or converting, you may wish to cut out the middle section of the ribbon that attaches both components. The reason for doing cutting the section out is because where the Blue/Yellow pieces meet the curing process has already taken affect, and if you started to mix your putty in this state you would end up with lump in what should be a smooth mix.
Ribbon Mixing
As stated above, cut away the joining section of the ribbon with a knife (you only need to cut a few millimetre’s either side) so that you take away the cured section, and then cut up the ribbon so have your desired amount of each colour. With damp fingers you will need to knead both parts of the putty together until you have a uniform ‘Green’ coloured mix.

Bar Putty
As the bars are separated from each other there is no need to cut anyway away, and as with the ribbon Green Stuff, you’ll need damp fingers. Take your two bars and cut away the amount of Blue putty you want. If you would like a standard consistency to your putty you will need to cut away a 1.5 ratio of yellow. Basically this means you need 50% more yellow putty to blue putty. Obviously if you need softer or harder putty add more of the particular component required as stated earlier in the article.

Green Stuff has anywhere between a 30 – 60 minute work time depending on consistency, and as a full hardened cure time of between 20 to 24 hours.
It is also advised to use either Vaseline or saliva when working with Green Stuff as it can stick to tools and your skin otherwise as the putty can be quite sticky when mixed.
-Green Stuff Sculpting
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